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all the love

Recipe: huckleberry cheesecake ice cream

I’ve noticed something changing over the past couple of months. It’s been gradual, and yet it feels as if my life has become… better. I found myself telling Neva, “I love you” as I played with her in the living room, or when I gave her a squeeze after finding her snoozing on the couch, or just walking past her while I was in the middle of a shoot. I’m not one to withhold saying “I love you” when I actually love an individual, but I didn’t say it very much in Neva’s early years because she made me absolutely insane and because I wasn’t sure that I really loved her. Now, I’m saying it many many times each day because she has gone from a sweet, but crazy girl to a sweet, crazy, but good girl. It’s been a slow process. This kind of behavior modification doesn’t happen overnight. But after getting Neva back from dog training camp four months ago, and working with her on the things Claire recommended, we are seeing such amazing progress now. Neva is definitely a happier pup when we give her instruction and she has learned to focus on us instead of spiraling out of control becoming a frenzy of anxiety and excitement. Best of all, on our most recent road trip from Crested Butte to Nederland, Neva didn’t drool a drop and she was even relaxed enough to chill out just watching traffic and scenery (she used to drool like a spigot and turn circles in her bed for 5 hours).


wildflowers going gangbusters in crested butte

our regularly scheduled evening rainbow in crested butte – no big deal

a paddle with jeremy on the taylor park reservoir

cinquefoil in bloom

the car is moving and neva isn’t upset about it



We returned to the Front Range in time to overlap with the tail end of my aunts’ visit with my parents in Boulder. I had not seen my dad’s younger sister in almost 30 years and it’s been over a decade since I met with my dad’s older sister. It made me so happy to see them both looking healthy and well. The next day, Jeremy left for the airport at 6 am to fly to the East Coast and I took Neva on a hike. Hiking with Neva has always been an ordeal because she gets so amped up in the high country that she pulls and cries and acts like a nut. It’s hard to manage that kind of behavior while hiking above 10,000 feet, so Jeremy (my high altitude mountain goat) typically wrangles Neva while I just hike and help as needed.

I took Neva by myself, resigned to deal with whatever happened. Of course, within the first ten minutes, we encountered three bull moose on the trail. Neva LOVES moose, so was very excited to see and smell them. I made her sit and wait as we gave them an opportunity to cross the trail without feeling threatened by our presence. Instead of pulling against her leash and baying loudly as she has done in the past, Neva sat, her tail wagging furiously, and cried softly as she watched the moose feed. But she remained by my side! WHO IS THIS DOG?!?!?! We eventually continued on the trail past the moose because they decided to hunker down and enjoy some willows for breakfast, and Neva was so damn good! It wasn’t a perfect hike, but Neva was the best she’s ever been with me on a solo hike. I couldn’t be happier.


dinner with my folks and my aunts

two of the three moose we encountered on the trail

neva takes in the smells while i take in the views

selfie on the ridge with my happy pup

dog as wildflower

dim sum with my folks



Whenever we go to Boulder to have dinner at my parents’ place, I almost always bring dessert because I like to make it and they like to eat it. For dinner with my aunts, Mom texted me that I shouldn’t bother making anything and to simply purchase something at the store since we just got home. But I had already planned on bringing ice cream – two flavors. The first was a lovely roasted strawberry ice cream that I had made a few weeks ago and the second was a recipe I had tested in February and decided it was too good not to make and share this time: huckleberry cheesecake ice cream. The huckleberry cheesecake ice cream is actually a very straightforward and easy recipe compared to my usual custard-based ice creams. Seeing as today is National Ice Cream Day, this is the perfect summery treat to share.

the berry swirl: huckleberries, lemon juice, water, salt, cornstarch, sugar

the crust: melted butter, graham cracker crumbs, sugar, cinnamon (not shown: pinch of salt)

the base: cream cheese, milk, cream, bourbon, salt, sugar



I know huckleberries can be hard to get if you don’t live in a place where they grow or don’t know how to find them. You can order them online (frozen) from places in Oregon, Idaho, Montana, and other blessed states that have wild mountain huckleberries. Or, you can substitute its cousin, the blueberry, which was the fruit used in the original version of this recipe. I’m just saying if you can get huckleberries, they are a billion times better than blueberries – and I love me some blueberries.

Start with the berry swirl, because it needs time to cool before you can incorporate it into the ice cream. It takes all of five minutes to simmer before you get a syrupy berry sauce that smells (and tastes) like the best thing you’ve ever had. Because huckleberries are smallish, I tend to only smash about a third of the berries because I like whole hucks in my ice cream. If you are using blueberries and they are large, then you may want to smoosh a larger fraction of the berries. Just use the back of a spoon and gently press the berries against the side of the pan. Let that cool while you mix the graham cracker crust. Use graham cracker crumbs like I have here, or you can crush your own graham crackers to retain a chunkier texture.


mix the huckleberries, cornstarch, sugar, salt, water, and lemon juice

berrylicious

combine the graham cracker crumbs, sugar, salt, cinnamon, and melted butter



Making custard-based ice creams requires more work and time than cream cheese-based ice creams. The custard requires separating eggs and cooking the custard, then straining and chilling before you can churn the ice cream. Cream cheese ice cream whips up in seconds in a food processor and you are churning the ice cream before you know it! There is a huge difference in the flavors of the ice cream bases. Custard tastes of egg yolks and is rich and smooth and mellow. Cream cheese imparts a tanginess to its ice cream that I don’t necessarily love on its own, but absolutely love with all of the mix ins.

blend the cream cheese, sugar, and salt in the food processor

add cream, milk, and bourbon and blend until smooth

pour into the ice cream maker

churned to a soft-serve consistency



As soon as the ice cream base has churned, you are ready for assembly! I’ve made this ice cream three times now (much to Jeremy’s delight) and find that it works best to layer half of the ice cream, berries, then graham cracker, then repeat the layers with the remaining half. Right before you pop it into the freezer, give the batch a little swirl with a spoon or knife. Two passes work well – any more than that and your ice cream will start to turn pinkish-purple.

huckleberry sauce, cream cheese ice cream, graham cracker crust

spoon the berry sauce over the ice cream

layer the graham cracker crumbs on top

drag a spoon or knife around a few times to mix the layers a bit

it’s ready to scoop when it is frozen through



Let me state for the record: 1) I am not a huge fan of cream cheese 2) I like cheesecake, but I’m not crazy about it 3) I prefer custard-based ice cream to cream cheese-based ice cream. That said, I freaking LOVE this ice cream! When Jeremy and I tasted the base on its own, we were pretty “meh” about it. But adding the sweet and tart huckleberries and the cinnamon-kissed graham cracker crust lifts this ice cream into the stratosphere. It’s like ice cream and huckleberry cheesecake had a delicious, creamy, fruity baby. You can easily substitute other kinds of berries or make it gluten-free by using gluten-free graham crackers. This recipe is a crowd-pleaser AND it’s not that hard to crank out. So on this national day of ice cream, I say go forth and eat ice cream!

that’s a bowl for two people

a great way to keep cool and happy

summer lovin’



Huckleberry Cheesecake Ice Cream
[print recipe]
modified from Joy the Baker

huckleberry sauce
1 cup fresh or frozen huckleberries (or any berries)
1/4 cup granulated sugar
2 tsps cornstarch
1 tbsp fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup water
pinch of salt

graham cracker crust
heaping 1/2 cup graham cracker crumbs (or coarsely crushed graham crackers – as you like)
1 1/2 tbsps granulated sugar
1/8 tsp ground cinnamon
pinch of salt
2 tbsps unsalted butter, melted

cream cheese ice cream base
8 oz. cream cheese, room temperature
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 tsp salt
1 cup whole milk
1 cup heavy whipping cream
1 tbsp bourbon (optional – but yes, please)

Make the huckleberry sauce: Combine all ingredients in a small saucepan and stir until the cornstarch has been completely incorporated (no lumps). Turn the heat to medium and stir for about 5 minutes until the sauce thickens and the berries give up their juices. I like some whole berries in my ice cream (because huckleberries are small), so I only smash about a third of the berries with the back of a spoon. If using other berries, mash as you see fit. Remove from stove and let cool completely. Set aside.

Mix the graham cracker crust: Place the graham cracker crumbs, sugar, cinnamon, and salt in a medium bowl and mix together. Pour the melted butter over the crumbs and use a fork to make the mixture uniform. It should look like wet sand. Set aside.

Make the cream cheese ice cream base: In the bowl of a food processor, pulse the cream cheese, sugar, and salt together until smooth. With the food processor running, add the milk, cream, and bourbon (if using) through the pour hole until blended. Churn the cream cheese ice cream base in your ice cream maker according the manufacturer’s instructions.

Assemble the ice cream: When the ice cream is churned to soft-serve consistency, spread half of the cream cheese ice cream into your vessel. Pour half of the huckleberry sauce over the ice cream. Sprinkle half of the graham cracker crust over the huckleberries. Repeat with the remaining ingredients. Take a knife or spoon and run a few swirls (figure 8 works well for me) along the length of the ice cream, making sure you reach the bottom of the vessel. Freeze for several hours until firm. Makes about a quart.


more goodness from the use real butter archives

huckleberry ice cream huckleberry semifreddo huckleberry panna cotta huckleberry bread pudding

18 nibbles at “all the love”

  1. Susanne says:

    Okay, I give up. I will buy an ice cream maker. Because OH MY GOD THIS ICE CREAM.

  2. Bette says:

    So happy Neva passed through her teenage years and is now a companionable young adult! Amazing how that happens!

  3. Wendy says:

    The ice cream looks delicious, but I am way more excited about your developing relationship with Neva. Now, that is AWESOME! I can empathize because I, too, am now learning to live and love a young pup after many years with the dog I believe to have been my “heart dog”. We had our struggles early on, then found a positive training approach that was very different from what I had previously thought was the correct way to train a dog, and now we are thoroughly enjoying a partnership and calmness that makes us all (hubby included) so happy. We’re still very much a work in progress…the description of your hike sounds just like Amber and me…but things get better and more enjoyable every day. I’m so very happy for you and Neva.

  4. Ben Myhre says:

    oooo… this looks delicious! This is the kind of thing I could not have around too long.

  5. Kristin says:

    Such gorgeous photos! And moose…I kind of empathize with Neva about moose excitement. I used to love cheesecake and cream cheese on my bagels but, as I’ve gotten older, not so much anymore. Maybe it’s my lactose intolerance (ha…still love cheese and milk and ice cream), but I’m just not a fan anymore, so I am happy to hear that you and Jeremy loved this. I would’ve been inclined not to try cream cheese based ice cream without the rec.

  6. Katie says:

    Where do you get dim sum in Boulder that’s worth it??

  7. Jill Hyde says:

    I’m so glad Neva is growing into a lovable pup! And that her training has helped her anxiety!
    Lovely family photos! OMG the size of those steaks!!!
    Do you ever see bear, or are they down in the flats looking for food?
    xoxo, jill

  8. 2pots2cook says:

    Oh boy ! I don’t even mind getting few pounds ! This is great !

  9. Jean Ann says:

    Another great post! Thank you.

  10. Melissa says:

    Absolutely love the Neva things, and you feeling oh so loving toward her. That makes my heart happy for you – and for her.

  11. Mary Karen says:

    What a lovely post! So happy to hear (and see) that everything in your life is in full bloom!

  12. debbie says:

    That looks wonderful. I am not a big fan of cheesecake ice cream but willing to give this a try! Thanks!

  13. farmerpam says:

    Lovely photos. Recipe looks amazing, and so, so glad to see Neva becoming the pup you always hoped she’d become.

  14. Bodhited says:

    Where is the dim sum restaurant pictured here? What is your favorite in the Boulder/Denver area?

  15. farmerpam says:

    Made this recipe last night using wild blueberries, easy peasy and so good! People think I’m a really good cook because of your tried and true recipes, thanks!!! ;)

  16. jenyu says:

    Susanne – YAY!!!

    Bette – I have to wonder if it is age because so many things seem to be clicking now – and some still haven’t, but we’re getting there :)

    Wendy – That is wonderful to hear and I am really proud of you for sticking it through. I wish there were more people in the world like you who are willing to put in the work required to get a great dog-person relationship. xoxo

    Ben – :)

    Kristin – I think cream cheese in general is kind of heavy for my tastes (whipped is slightly better). But in this ice cream it’s like a lighter version of cheesecake, which I like! And the tartness of the berries are perfect with it.

    Katie – I don’t think there are any good dim sum joints in Boulder (at least that I know of). There is Emperor Palace in Broomfield which is decent for not driving to Denver. I think the best one in Denver is probably Super Star Asian Cuisine (which is where we went this last time). Even so, some of their items aren’t worth ordering, but I suppose that’s because I have been totally spoiled living in California for many years.

    Jill Hyde – Yes, those steaks were 1.5 inches thick! We rarely see bears around here, but they are definitely around Nederland. Sometimes they make public appearances but most of the time we see evidence of the visit from scratch marks on the compost bin and such.

    2pots2cook – :)

    Jean Ann – You’re welcome!

    Melissa – Thank you, friend. It makes me feel good knowing that you and Oswald went through a similar journey and now find yourselves on the other side. All the feels xoxo

    MK – Thanks!! xoxo

    debbie – I hope you like it (hard to go wrong with a Joy The Baker recipe).

    farmerpam – Thank you and glad it turned out well with the blues! And guess what? You probably ARE a really good cook regardless of my recipes ;) xo

    Bodhited – It’s Super Star Asian Cuisine in Denver. Probably the best one I’ve been to, but it’s still not as good as places in the Bay Area or San Gabriel Valley in California.

  17. Tiffany says:

    I think I saw you and Neva on the trail that day. I did not want to disturb you, plus I was busy wrangling a big group of out-of-town relatives. But you may get a kick out of hearing that I had eaten your delicious chia seed pudding for breakfast that morning. BTW, Neva was totally well-behaved when she passed us. We did not see the moose you saw, but saw 2 others on our way back to the car. Thanks for the great pictures and recipes.

  18. jenyu says:

    Tiffany – Oh my gosh! You should have said hi! So glad that Neva was not being a bad girl :) xoxo

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