Recipe: passion fruit ice cream
I was commenting (read: whining) about the heat to my girlfriend the other day when she replied, “I want to kick the sun in the nuts.” That about sums it up. It was the hottest day of the year thus far. But then a lovely cool-down (literally) blew into town and we woke up to misty mountains and that chill on the morning air. Sunny days are beautiful and plentiful in Colorado, which is why I cherish those cool and cloudy moments when we can get them. Perfect hiking weather for a black dog.
clouds descend on the valley
high runoff means parts of the trail were flooded
what is normally a lovely cascade is currently a torrent
June is the month of major upgrades here at urb. Oh wait, you thought I meant the blog? Ha! I’ll get around to editing that code in about 6 months. No, I’ve been making upgrades for my work (this blog is not my work, people). Upgrades like:
my second shooting body
and my desktop
There are more upgrades, but these are the biggest offenders. And by offenders I really mean these are my babies… my workhorses. So expect the next 3000 recipes to be some variation on how to eat dirt.
I have a really fabulous recipe for you today. It’s fabulous because I have been obsessing over it for a few years now. I’ve been obsessing over passion fruit which is prohibitively expensive here in Colorado. I was on a mission to find them in order to flavor buttercreams for passion fruit macarons. I started with a passion fruit syrup/nectar/concentrate from an Asian grocer in California’s bay area. It was decent. Then last year I received a package of goodies from my dear friends, Todd and Diane.
remember these beauties?
the passion fruits were more precious than gold
I scooped the guts of the passion fruits into a little container and popped it into the freezer. On my most recent trip to California, Jeremy and I were returning from Yosemite to the bay area when I sent my pal Lisa a text asking where she found the passion fruit concentrate for her passion fruit macarons (I had one of those macs, by the way, and they were out of this world). Whenever you ask Lisa for information, you are going to get ALL of it. That’s one of the reasons I love her. We’re both just a little OCD. Just a little.
i managed to snag the last container (and i defrosted the pulp i had in the freezer)
My issue with the concentrate from the Asian grocer is that it contains an ass ton of added sugar. This brand of passion fruit concentrate is beautifully tart, fragrant, and intensely passion fruity – the real deal. Take a taste and your mouth will pucker and your salivary glands will flood your mouth. The first order of business? Ice cream.
milk and sugar
whisking warmed milk into the egg yolks
It’s a concentrate, which made me wonder if I should cut back on the amount of passion fruit juice that was called for in the recipe. I started with half as much. After taking a taste, I decided to go whole hog and use the entire 1/2 cup of concentrate.
cook into a custard
combine the cream with the passion fruit concentrate
When I stirred it all together, the acidity of the passion fruit curdled the cream just a tad. I could see flecks of white in the mix and it made me fret. I’d kick myself for wasting that concentrate if it tanked. I forged on.
straining the custard into the cream mix
pouring cooled custard mix into the ice cream machine
I let it churn, checking every 5 or so minutes. The flecks were still there. At 15 minutes I resigned myself to just suck it up and then got distracted. When the timer went off, I returned to find that the soft ice cream was smooth – not a fleck of white in sight. Sweet!
more perfection! adding pulp and seeds to mix in before freezing
The addition of the seeds/pulp is optional, but I am quite fond of the crunchy texture the seeds add to the ice cream. It is a tart ice cream and I like it that way. Even the creaminess of a custard-based, heavy cream ice cream can’t mask the bold and bright flavor of the passion fruit. It is now my favorite ice cream and this passion fruit concentrate is my new crack.
it’s like taking a bite out of hawai’i!
Passion Fruit Ice Cream
slightly modified from The Perfect Scoop by David Lebovitz
1/2 cup (125 ml) fresh or frozen passion fruit pulp or concentrate (6-8 passion fruits – strain the pulp to separate from the seeds)
1 cup (250 ml) heavy cream
6 tbsps (90 ml) whole milk
7 tbsps (85g) sugar
pinch of salt
3 large egg yolks
spoonful of passion fruit seeds (optional – but I’d highly recommend it)
Combine the passion fruit pulp and 1/2 cup of cream in a large bowl. Place the milk, sugar, and salt and 1/2 cup of cream in a medium saucepan and warm over medium heat. Give it a stir so the sugar dissolves. Put the egg yolks in a medium bowl and slowly pour the warmed liquid into the yolks while whisking constantly to keep the yolks from cooking/curdling. Scrape all of the contents back into the saucepan and set the pan over medium heat. Stir constantly with a heatproof spatula making sure to get the bottom and edges of the pan. When the mixture reaches nappe consistency (coats the back of a spoon or spatula), strain the custard through a sieve into the passion fruit-cream mixture. Stir until blended and cool over an ice bath. Chill the custard completely in the refrigerator and then churn in your ice cream machine. Stir a few spoonfuls of passion fruit seeds (or seeds and pulp if you have it) into the ice cream just before it is done. Makes about 1.5 pints (3 cups).