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boulder: the pinyon

Thursday, October 13th, 2011

Edit: I’m sad to report The Pinyon has now closed, but hopefully Chef Theo will have new endeavors to follow in Denver. Stay tuned, locals.

Restaurants come and restaurants go. It’s a high turnover kind of industry and Boulder is no exception. When a place isn’t so good, you can wait a year and the space will likely free up. Folks in Boulder know what they like. I can’t even keep track of all the newish places opening up around town – and there are a lot because I get plenty of invitations to grand openings, special blogger dinners, media functions, etc. I guess there is some sort of directory for Boulder/Denver food bloggers. I don’t usually have the time in my schedule to attend. And really, I prefer to visit on my own dime, as a normal patron… with a camera.


from pearl street



So The Pinyon opened up last year. I caught it in my peripheral vision as I frequented favorites on East Pearl Street like Frasca, Pizzeria Locale, Atlas Purveyors, and L’Atelier. Another restaurant… I gave it some time and began to hear happy murmurs about the joint. Summer was so insane that we never had a chance to go. Then friends of mine started tweeting me: “@userealbutter have you been to @thepinyon?” It merely increased the urgency to pop by for a meal.

roomy interior

view toward the bar



These days if I like a restaurant, then I’ll visit more than once. I think that’s important to get a proper and honest assessment of a place. So even though the first time I dined at The Pinyon was in September and it was terrific, I made a point of returning a couple more times. Also? It’s an excuse to sample more of the menu, in the name of research. Ahem.

The Pinyon doesn’t offer an enormous selection, but it does offer a nice variety. This is American cuisine. They source locally as much as possible and serve seasonal fare. The food is bright, fresh, and perfectly seasoned – nothing overdone, but certainly done well. Ingredients are allowed to shine on their own for their quality. Tender mixed greens, sweet heirloom tomatoes lightly dressed, or a smooth and sweet golden beet soup with a touch of acid for added zest.


mixed lettuce with herb vinaigrette

heirloom tomato salad

golden beet soup



I dined here three times in as many weeks. After the first visit, I couldn’t wait to go back. There’s a reason for all of the hype among my Boulder twitterati – the food is terrific. In addition to the salads and daily soup pictured above, they offer small plates of house farmer cheese, country ham, pnynwings (a sriracha take on buffalo wings), and a selection of charcuterie and friends. Some side dishes include: pickled watermelon rind, duck fat french fries (how could you not?), English muffin with house made butter and jam, sweet corn and fennel, and cheddar grits.

the four-freaking-fabulous-hour meatball and spaghetti

shrimp and grits with a fried egg on top

fried chicken with scallion pancake



**Jump for more butter**

boulder: sushi tora

Saturday, March 5th, 2011

If you know me even a little bit, you know that I love sushi. Going to college in southern California sealed my fate in so many ways including sushi and Jeremy. My litmus test for my first dinner date with Jeremy was at a popular sushi bar in Pasadena. If he couldn’t handle the fish – out the airlock! But he loved it. Good thing too! When we first moved to Colorado, we were stunned at the number of sushi restaurants in Boulder. There are several – at least ten off the top of my head. But not all sushi restaurants in Boulder, Colorado are created equal. It didn’t take long before I zeroed in on my favorite.


sushi tora in spring



Sushi in Boulder is not inexpensive if your reference point is a major city on a coast. Once you get over the initial sticker shock, you come to learn that there is bad expensive sushi and good expensive sushi. Sushi Tora obviously boasts the Good Sushi. I’m no expert. I just know what I like. Their fish is consistently the freshest, best-prepared, and highest quality. I should note that I’m more of a sashimi and maki girl than a nigiri girl. It’s where I take out-of-town guests who have a hankering for sushi. It’s where I take my parents. They LOVED Tora and my folks are the first to wrinkle their noses and point out when a restaurant doesn’t serve satisfactory food (that’s where I get it from). I had to forgo sushi during my chemotherapy in 2008. Can you guess the first place we went for dinner when I got the all-clear from my oncologist? Tora, of course!

kampachi (amber jack) crudo with tobiko, orange oil, garlic, pepper



There have been some changes since I started going to Sushi Tora in 2006. Change in ownership for one. Change in head sushi chef too. For the past few years, my dining schedule has been pretty busy with so many places to choose from. I try to keep the variety alive and well. I’d go to sushi for more lunch meetings than anything else and that was always easier at the tables than at the bar. Sitting at the bar is the finger on the pulse of a sushi joint – sitting at a table is neither here nor there, but my white friends tend to prefer it. I saw the changes, but they didn’t register in my head until I was invited to come in and meet the new chefs last December. I’m slow on the uptake, okay.

beef short rib and cabbage fried wontons with sweet soy sauce and spicy mustard

pork and ginger gyoza with ponzu



**Jump for more butter**

boulder: pizzeria locale

Wednesday, February 16th, 2011

Right before a meeting Friday morning, I got a text from my lovely friend, Denise asking if I wanted to grab lunch at Frasca’s new pizzeria. I already had lunch plans and sadly had to decline. But the following day I was back in town for PodCamp Boulder 3 with my pal, Kathya. When the conference broke for lunch, most of the folks planned to cross the street and grab a bite. Kathya and I are food bloggers – every meal is an opportunity, right? So we high-tailed it in the snow to Pearl Street and managed to get a table for two at a very busy Pizzeria Locale.


pizzeria locale



The restaurant had only been open a week or so when we walked in. Frasca is the parent restaurant of Pizzeria Locale. Frasca is also an absolute gem of a dining establishment in Boulder – their food, wine, and service is phenomenal. I had high expectations for Pizzeria Locale. The tables were packed, the bar was packed, and the bar around the gorgeous pizza oven (the first Stefano Ferrara oven in the state of Colorado) was packed.

the menu



The service is good. It’s not at the level of Frasca which I don’t really expect from a pizzeria anyway, but the hostess, servers, and the general manager (Chris – a stand up fellow) were all attentive, friendly, and warm. The interior has a jovial, modern feel to it and the place is loud because diners are happy and enjoying themselves. As staff walked plates of freshly baked pizzas out to the tables, more than a few sets of eyes followed the plates with longing. I’m guilty of ogling the pizzas too.

hydrate with some still water



Kat and I opted for a table (had better natural light than the pizza bar) and began to scan the menu. Pizzeria Locale offers up a tempting selection of salads, side dishes, pizzas (and calzone), and dessert. They also offer gluten-free dough for their pizza. The lunch special (which Denise had mentioned) was a small arugula salad, a marinara pizza, and a coke for $9. As good as that sounded, we wanted to sample a little more of the menu and opted for two salads and a pizza.

the amalfi: fennel, citrus, dill ($7)

the antica: arugula, parmigiano reggiano, balsamic vinegar ($7)

kat digs into the lovely greens



**Jump for more butter**