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I’m convinced the reason so many people dislike winter is because they live in a place with crappy winters, don’t know how to do any winter activities, or both. Winter can be slushy, dreary, icy, awful. But winter can also be fluffy, powdery, sunny, fun, and invigorating. In Crested Butte, Colorado – winter is a dream.

Some of the finest skiing and riding in the country can be had up the road at Crested Butte Mountain Resort. And there are loads of backcountry routes into breathtaking high country mere minutes from town. But did you know that Crested Butte also boasts an incredible network of 55 km of groomed nordic trails managed by the Crested Butte Nordic Center?

the nordic center based in town

inside: rentals, ticket and pass sales, equipment, information, friendly people

I know Crested Butte is the Wildflower Capital of Colorado, but I didn’t know it is also the Nordic Ski Capital of Colorado (according to the Nordic Center, but I’ll give it to them). Adjacent to the center is a large outdoor ice rink which abuts a sort of sled park (it is a skate park in summer). The center rents ice skates, snow shoes, skate skis, cross-country skis, and assorted accessories. They also offer lessons, free clinics, and sponsor several night ski/five course dinners at the Magic Meadows Yurt throughout the winter.

jeremy enjoys exploring the trail network

the trail to the yurt in daylight (there are designated dog-friendly trails in the network)

On a friend’s recommendation, Jeremy and I signed up for the winter solstice yurt dinner. It’s a 1 mile ski or snowshoe on the nordic trails to the yurt after sunset. Dinner goes from about 6:00 pm to 9:00 pm (roughly), and then you ski back at night. As season pass holders, we each get a $20 discount on the dinner (was $70/person at the time, now is $75). Our friend, Erin, visited us over the solstice and signed up for the dinner too. Anyone attending the dinner has the option to bring their own skis/snowshoes or get a free ski/snowshoe rental from the Nordic Center. We all ski, but you don’t have to know how to ski to enjoy this tremendously fun evening.

the yurt, nestled in the trees and snow

“come forth into the light of things, let nature be your teacher” – william wordsworth

We picked up Erin’s skis from the Nordic Center at 5:00 pm (they won’t loan them out earlier than that for the dinners) and drove to the Gronk trailhead. It takes 30 minutes (on average) to ski out there. The friendly fellow working the desk suggested we arrive at the yurt around 6:00 pm when they start with appetizers. It was getting dark when we headed out, but the trail to the yurt is marked with lit tiki torches and it was super fun skiing in the dark and passing all of the snow shoers. Of course, everyone on skate skis flew past us.

The Magic Meadows Yurt is only accessible in winter, which makes it extra special. Park your skis or snowshoes outside on the racks and head inside to the warm and cozy yurt. We had no idea what to expect inside, but it was far cushier than we imagined it would be. The interior had rustic mountain-style decor alongside lovely local photography. A wood stove heated the entire space from the east wall and the whole place was romantically lit.

erin and jeremy outside the yurt

the interior

**Jump for more butter**

Recipe: miso-roasted cauliflower

Winter storms are marching across (or around) Colorado this week. We had a short 1-day window between storms to zip over to Crested Butte. There’s so much powder being dumped that it’s enough to make a girl’s head spin. So she might be forgiven for suggesting getting a handful of first tracks in the morning before packing everything up to drive 5+ hours. And now we’re about to celebrate our first Chinese New Year in the new place! I guess it isn’t so new anymore, but it still feels new. The important thing is that we all love it here, including Kaweah. Of course, she sleeps most of the time and it tugs at my heart that she can’t enjoy the high country, trails, town, or even the neighborhood with us the way she could just a few years ago.

old pups need lots of naps

i brought “fu” (luck) to hang upside down on our front door

Chinese New Year will be just a tad simpler in Crested Butte than normal, because the kitchen is smaller and the groceries around here aren’t so great for traditional Chinese cooking. I prepped several dishes in Nederland and will make the rest here on Thursday (Chinese New Year’s Eve) after we ski the powder. Yes, there is powder and a lot of it in the forecast for CB! We took a break from work on Wednesday afternoon to squeeze in a nordic ski and the snow was already falling. Getting outside is the very best medicine for me.

me, my sweetie, and large fluffy flakes!

along the slate river

I can tell that the Crested Butte kitchen is slowly coming up to snuff because the types of meals I prepare here are converging with the types of meals I prepare at home. We ate a lot of simple dishes when we first moved in – boiled things, grilled things, roasted things. We still do a lot of roasted vegetables because it’s a lovely way to enjoy Brussels sprouts, broccoli, butternut squash, asparagus, carrots, potatoes, tomatoes, and cauliflower. I have always loved cauliflower and all vegetables thanks in no small part to my mom’s great cooking. Most of the time she would stir-fry or braise the vegetables, but now I’ve added roasting to that list of favorite techniques. It concentrates the sweetness and flavor so nicely, and it’s pretty easy to do. Roasted cauliflower is a real winner of a dish, but the other day I thought to add miso to the mix… because how could it be bad?!

pretty purple and orange cauliflowers

so pretty

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Chinese New Year (or the Lunar New Year) is a week away! It will be the Year of the Horse, which is special because my sister was born in the Year of the Horse and would have been 48 this year. I’m busy cleaning the house, prepping special foods, and doing those things that are supposed to bring luck in the new year. Maybe you are a traditionalist or perhaps the lunar new year doesn’t have any significance to you, but you want to make a celebratory meal or throw a Chinese-themed party. Either way, I’ve got a recipe round up for you!

traditional dishes

These are the dishes I make year after year. They symbolize luck, fortune, health, happiness, promotion.

Cellophane noodle soup: It’s a big pot of goodies – sort of a catchall for lucky things. The cellophane noodles (bean thread noodles or glass noodles) represent long life – so for goodness’ sake, DON’T CUT THE NOODLES. Meatballs and fish balls are round, which the Chinese like and their meaning is reunion.

Chinese dumplings and potstickers: Theoretically you are supposed to make dumplings (boiled or steamed), but I always make potstickers because I’m a crunch-junkie. My mom always told us that eating dumplings meant more money in the new year because they are shaped like gold ingots. Then I found out later that dumplings also symbolize having sons. I’m sticking with the money story.

Chinese egg dumplings: The Chinese have a thing for dumplings, because they are like purses, and purses hold money. These egg dumplings typically go in the cellophane noodle soup, but they are wonderful eaten on their own too.

Lucky ten ingredient vegetables: Lucky lucky lucky! Ten is a lucky number. Don’t make this with nine or eleven ingredients – you’ll screw up the new year! Also, don’t use hollow vegetables (green onions, water spinach – these are hollow and bad luck). Tofu is okay, but no meat is allowed in the dish.

Stir-fried rice cakes: These rice cakes are sticky, chewy disks of rice flour. The name of the rice cake, nian gao, sounds like “higher year”. Eating the rice cakes is good luck for a promotion or toward greater prosperity.

Stir-fried soybean sprouts: These are my favorite and plentiful in most Asian markets this time of year (because everyone wants luck!). Eating soybean sprouts (or bean sprouts in general) ensures a good start to the new year.

appetizers

There’s something you should know about tofu. It’s a big deal. Fu is “luck” in Chinese. So tofu is pretty popular in the new year festivities because everyone wants lots of luck. The thing is, you shouldn’t eat white tofu because white is bad – it’s the color of mourning/death. That’s bad luck. But don’t fret, there are a bazillion ways to eat tofu: fried, dried, marinated, sheets, pressed.

Bean curd rolls: You can find bean curd sheets or tofu skin in Asian grocery stores. They are either dried or frozen. This tofu skin roll is filled with savory pork and vegetables, and then braised til soft. I order it at dim sum all the time.

Chinese tea eggs: Eggs represent fertility, but I just love the subtle flavor of the tea infusion as well as the delicate crackle pattern on the peeled egg.

Fried shrimp wontons: Terrific nibbles with the added bonus that shrimp symbolize happiness and good fortune.

Pickled Chinese cabbage: Served cold, this sweet, salty, sour, spicy, crunchy pickled cabbage wakes your mouth up in the best way possible. I could snack on a bowl of this all by myself. Cabbage means money, prosperity.

Scallion pancakes: One of the best savory snacks, ever. I’m not sure if it has any symbolism, but it’s delicious!

Shrimp toast: More shrimp goodness (happiness and fortune).

**Jump for more butter**